Learn three new stitches and create an heirloom quality baby blanket that a new mom will cherish! The Pretty in Panels Stitch Sampler Crochet Baby Blanket features the bobblet stitch, honeycomb stitch, and bar stitch, each of which have a single crochet base.
Made by Gootie and The Loophole Fox have both done gorgeous panel style afghans, which were my inspiration for this project. You can see their collaborative projects here:
Since all of these stitches are based in single crochet, I decided to work a simple single crochet border around each panel and around the blanket.
Materials
- Size 4 worsted weight yarn, approximately 1,700 yards. For this pattern I used Yarn Bee Breathe Deep in the following colors:
- Color A: 2 Skeins Soft Coral (about 430 yards)
- Color B: 2 Skeins Mauve (about 430 yards)
- Color C: 2 Skeins Clay (about 430 yards)
- Color D: 2 Skeins Ivory (about 430 yards, border color)
- NOTE: Unfortunately this yarn has been discontinued! Substitute for a light worsted that calls for a G/6 4.25mm crochet hook on the label. Yarnsub.com is a great resource! Here are some suggested substitutions. For example, Lion Brand Feels Like Butta is a good option.
- Size G/6 4.25mm crochet hook
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
Abbreviations (US)
- ch(s): chain(s)
- fpdc(s): front post double crochet(s)
- pm: place marker in the st you just made
- rep: repeat
- rnd(s): round(s)
- rs: right side
- sc(s): single crochet(s)
- sl st: slip stitch
- st(s): stitch(es)
- ws: wrong side
- yo: yarn over
Special Stitches
eesc(s): extra extended single crochet(s): Insert your hook in the st, yo and pull up a loop. You will have 2 loops on your hook. Ch 2. You will still have 2 loops on your hook. Yo and pull through both loops. For a great visual, check out Heart Hook Home’s step-by-step bobblet stitch tutorial.
spike st(s): sc 2 rows below the next st.
Finished Size
32″ x 30″ for the full blanket. Each individual panel before adding the color D borders measures about 28″ x 7.5″.
Gauge
Bobblet Stitch Gauge: 16 sts x 18 rows = 4″ x 4″
Honeycomb Stitch Gauge: 16 sts x 27 rows = 4″ x 4″
Bar Stitch Gauge: 16 sts x 24 rows = 4″ x 4″
Single Crochet Stitch Gauge (for borders): 16 sts x 20 rows = 4″ x 4″
Notes
You can get an ads-free, easy-to-print PDF of this pattern over at Ravelry!
Although the honeycomb stitch panel is in the center of the blanket, I recommend beginning with this panel because this stitch is the biggest yarn eater! It will take you the longest and it will also serve as a good reference for the height of your other panels.
For step by step tutorials of any of these stitches, I highly recommend the following:
- Honeycomb Stitch Tutorial by Nordic Hook
- Bobblet Stitch Tutorial by Heart Hook Home
- Bar Stitch Tutorial by Nordic Hook
To adjust the width of the blanket, ch a multiple of 3+1 for each panel that is also an odd number.
Pattern
Honeycomb Stitch Panel
Using color B (mauve), ch 115.
Row 1: (ws) Sc in the second ch from hook and in each st across. (114 sts here and through panel). Ch 1 and turn.
Row 2: (rs) Sc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: (ws) Sc in the first st. Sc 2 rows below the next st (spike st). In this row that means you’ll be working into the starting ch. As you work the spike st, make sure you pull the loop up to the height of your working row. *Sc in the next st, spike st 2 rows below the next st*, rep to the end of row. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 4: (rs) Sc in the first st. Sc under the next 2 loops of spike sts, pulling them together and forming a V. I’m including a photo of where to insert your hook below.
*Sc in the next st, sc under the next 2 loops of spike sts* across until there are 2 sts left in the row. Sc in the last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 5: (ws) Spike st 2 rows below the first st. Sc in the next st. Note: when you insert your hook for the spike sts, make sure it comes out in the center of the upside-down Vs you’ve created on the other side. I’m including a photo below.
*Spike st 2 rows beneath the next st, sc in the next st* across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 6: (rs) Sc in the first 2 sts. *Sc under the next 2 loops of spike sts, sc in the next st* across. Ch 1 and turn.
Rows 7-50: Rep rows 3-6. If you adjust the number of rows, this st looks best if you end on a rs facing row, so row 4 or 6 of the repeat.
By the way, if you love the look of the honeycomb stitch, I have a honeycomb stitch temperature baby blanket pattern you might like!
Bobblet Stitch Panel
Using color A (soft coral), ch 115.
Row 1: (ws) Sc in the second ch from hook and in each st across. (114 sts here and through panel). Ch 1 and turn.
Row 2: (rs) Sc in the first st, eesc in the next st: insert your hook in the st, yo and pull up a loop. You will have 2 loops on your hook. Ch 2. You will still have 2 loops on your hook. Yo and pull through both loops. *Sc in the next st, eesc in the next st* until there are 2 sts left in the row. Sc in the last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: (ws) Sc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 4: (rs) Sc in the first 2 sts. *eesc in the next st, sc in the next st* across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 5: (ws) Sc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Rows 6-35: Rep rows 2-5. If you adjust the number of rows, this st looks best if you end on a ws facing row, so row 3 or 5 of the repeat.
Bar Stitch Panel
Using color C (clay), ch 115.
Row 1: (rs) Sc in the second ch from hook and in each st across. (114 sts here and through panel). Ch 1 and turn.
Row 2: (ws) Sc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: (rs) Sc in the first st. Fpdc around the next st in the first row (2 rows below). *sc in the next 2 sts, fpdc around the next st in the first row* until there is 1 st left in the row. Sc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 4: (ws) Sc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 5: (rs) Sc in the first st. Fpdc around the fpdc 2 rows below. *sc in the next 2 sts, fpdc around the next fpdc st* across until there is 1 st left in the row. Sc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn.
Rows 6-42: Rep rows 4-5. If you adjust the number of rows, this st looks best when you end on a ws facing row, so row 4 of the repeat.
Border
Note: I recommend working Rnd 1 of the border in the same color as each individual panel, then switching to color D (ivory). This especially helps the edges along the sides look neat!
Individual Panel Borders
Border is worked rs facing.
Rnd 1: Pull up a loop in any corner using the same color yarn as your panel. Ch 1 to attach. Sc in the same st, pm, sc again in the same st. (Working 2 scs in the starting corner keeps the seam in the corner.) Sc across. In each corner, 3 scs, making sure you pm in the middle sc. As you work along the sides, I suggest laying down your panel often to check that the work isn’t pulling or ruffling. Do not be shy about ripping back if you don’t like how your edges are behaving! When you reach your starting corner, sc, then sl st join to your marked first st of the rnd. Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.
Not including your marked corners, you should have 114 sts along the top and bottom edges of your work, and approximately 26 sts along the sides. Keep these numbers consistent across your panels for the most polished look.
Quick note about the bottom row: if you’re working the border on your starting ch side and thinking that you only have 113 sts, check your slip knot! For me that knot was so tight it hid the very first st of the starting ch. Loosen it up and you’ll be good to go!
Rnd 2: Switch to color D (ivory). Pull up a loop in any corner, ch 1 to attach, then sc, pm, sc in the same st. Sc across each edge of the panel. In each marked corner, 3 scs, making sure you pm in the middle sc. When you reach your starting corner, sc, pm, sl st join to the first marked st of the rnd. Ch 1, do not turn.
The reason I suggest a stitch marker in both last sc of the round and the first sc of the next round is because the sl st join and the ch 1 creates the illusion there are 2 extra stitches. Here’s a visual of how it looks like there are 2 extra stitches which you will not work into:
I have completed many a blanket border where I accidentally added stitches because I worked into the slip stitch or the ch 1 here. So I hope this stitch marker tip is helpful!
Rnd 3-5: Sc, pm, sc in the same st. Sc across each edge of the panel. In each marked corner, 3 scs, making sure you pm in the middle sc. When you reach your starting corner, sc, pm, sl st join to the first marked st of the rnd. Ch 1, do not turn.
Not including your marked corner sts, you should now have 122 sts along the top and bottom of each panel and 34 sts along the sides.
Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.
Joining the Panels
Join the bottom of your first panel (bobblet st) and the top of your next panel (honeycomb st) together using a whip st. Then join the bottom of your middle panel (honeycomb st) to the top of your last panel (bar st) using a whip st.
Full Blanket Border
Rnd 1: Pull up a loop in any corner, ch 1 to attach, then sc, pm, sc in the same st. Sc across each side of the blanket. In each marked corner, 3 scs, making sure you pm in the middle sc. When you reach your starting corner, sc, pm, sl st join to the first marked st of the rnd. Ch 1, do not turn.
Rnds 2-6: Sc, pm, sc in the same st. Sc across each edge of the blanket. In each marked corner, 3 scs, making sure you pm in the middle sc. When you reach your starting corner, sc, pm, sl st join to the first marked st of the rnd. Ch 1, do not turn.
Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.
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Dana Nield 
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