Caramel Coffee Crochet Baby Blanket

Learn to crochet two new stitches and create the Caramel Coffee Crochet Baby Blanket! This memorizable pattern alternates rows of single crochet with caramel stitches and puff stitches for a visually interesting, touchable blanket!

Puff stitches and caramel stitches are both created by inserting your hook and yarning over several times to get several loops on your hook. Then you yarn over and draw through all the loops!

A puff stitch is all worked in the same stitch to create the bobble texture. The unique appearance of the caramel stitch, also known as a spike cluster stitch, is achieved through inserting your hook in three different places as you create it. In fact, if you love the idea of that stitch construction, check out my Feather Stitch Crochet Baby Blanket (a one-row repeat pattern)!

The pattern is completed with a thick moss stitch border. Moss stitch is a very simple stitch alternating single crochets and chain spaces for a woven appearance.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

You can save this pattern to your Pinterest board here.

Abbreviations (US)

  • ch(s): chain(s)
  • pm: place marker
  • rep: repeat
  • rnd(s): round(s)
  • rs: right side
  • sc(s): single crochet(s)
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sp(s): space(s)
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • ws: wrong side
  • yo: yarn over

Special Stitches

Caramel st: (worked rs facing) Yo. Insert your hook in the next st, yo, and pull up a loop. You will have three loops on your hook. Yo. Insert your hook beneath the st you’d just worked into (the top of the st from two rows back). Yo and pull up a loop. You will have five loops on your hook. Yo. Insert your hook beneath the st you’d just worked into (the top of the st from three rows back). Yo and pull up a loop. You will have seven loops on your hook. Yo and pull through all seven loops on your hook.

1. Yo.

2. Insert your hook in the next st, yo, and pull up a loop. You will have three loops on your hook.

3. Yo.

4. Insert your hook beneath the st you’d just worked into (the top of the st from two rows back). Yo and pull up a loop. You will have five loops on your hook.

5. Yo.

6. Insert your hook beneath the st you’d just worked into (the top of the st from three rows back). Yo and pull up a loop. You will have seven loops on your hook.

7. Yo.

8. Pull through all seven loops on your hook.

9. A few completed caramel stitches separated by single crochet stitches.

10. The back of the caramel stitches. Similar, but slightly looser.

Puff st: (worked ws facing) This st is worked in the SAME way as the caramel st, except we are inserting our hook into the same st each time.

Yo, insert your hook into the designated st, pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on your hook. Yo, insert your hook into the same st, pull up a loop. You should have 5 loops on your hook. Yo, insert your hook into the same st, pull up a loop. You should have 7 loops on your hook. Yo and pull through all 7 loops.

1. Yo.

2. Insert your hook into the designated st, pull up a loop. You’ll have 3 loops on your hook.

3. Yo.

4. Insert your hook into the same st, pull up a loop. You should have 5 loops on your hook.

5. Yo.

6. Insert your hook into the same st, pull up a loop. You should have 7 loops on your hook.

7. Yo and pull through all 7 loops.

8. Puff sts are pushed to the other side of the work.

9. So, this is what your row of puff sts separated by sc sts will look like on the ws…

10. …and this is how they will look on the rs!

Materials

  • K+C Essential Cotton DK Weight 3 Light (100% cotton, 180yd/165m, 3.5oz/100g)
    • Color A: 2 skeins Cream
    • Color B: 2 skeins Golden Coast
    • Color C: 2 skeins White Sands
    • Color D, border color: 2-3 skeins Sequoia
      =1,440yds total
      • I had a very small amount of yarn left over at the end of the border. If your tension is looser than mine, you might want to get a 3rd skein for your border just in case!
      • K+C was a Joann brand. YarnSub.com is a great resource for choosing another yarn. For example, Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton! would be a great alternative.
  • Size G/6 4mm crochet hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry needle

Finished Size

34″ x 30″ with border | 31″ x 27″ before border

Gauge

15.5 sts x 19 rows = 4″ x 4″

Notes

You can get an ads-free, easy-to-print PDF of this pattern over at Etsy or Ravelry!

You can watch a video tutorial for this pattern on my YouTube channel here or below:

Turning ch never counts as a st.

To adjust the width of this blanket, ch any even number.

Caramel Coffee Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern

With color A, ch 120.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1 and turn. <119 scs.>

Rows 2, 3, 4: Sc across, ch 1 and turn. <119 scs.>

Row 5: (rs) Join color B, sc in the first st, *caramel st in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * across, ch 1 and turn, join color C. <59 scs, 58 caramel sts.>

Tip: place a stitch marker on the rs of the fabric so you remember which is which, at least until the repeat is formed and the rs becomes obvious.

Rows 6, 7, 8, 9: Sc across, ch 1 and turn. <119 scs.>

Row 10: (ws) Join color D, sc in the first st, *puff st in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * across, ch 1 and turn, join color A. <59 scs, 58 puff sts.>

Rows 11, 12, 13, 14: Sc across, ch 1 and turn. <119 scs.>

Rows 15-129: Rep Rows 5-14. You should end on Row 9 of the repeat.

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in all those ends!

Moss Stitch Border

Border is worked in continuous rnds with the blanket rs-facing. At the end of Rnd 1, each side must have an odd number of scs for the moss st border pattern.

Rnd 1: With color D, pull up a loop of yarn in the top right corner, ch 1, sc in the same st, [sc in each st across, in the corner, work (sc, ch 2, pm, sc), along the side aim to work about 4 scs per 5 row-ends*, work (sc, ch 2, pm, sc) in the corner] twice, then when you reach your starting corner, (sc, ch 1**, pm, sl st join). <Not including the marked corner sps, you should have 119 sts across the top and bottom of the blanket, and 105 sts along the sides.>

*A trick to remember this is to only work into the sc row-ends and skip the fancy rows.

**We are only doing a ch 1 in the starting corner to minimize the size of the eyelets that will form since this will be our seam.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc back into the marked ch-1 corner†, [*ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next st; rep from * across until there is 1 st left in the row, ch 1, sk 1 st, work (sc, ch 2, pm, sc) in the marked ch-2 corner sp] four times, then when you reach your starting corner, work (sc, ch 1, pm, sl st join). <Not including the marked corner sps, you should have 121 sts across the top and bottom of the blanket, and 107 sts along the sides.>

†Working back into the starting corner keeps your seam in the corner.

Rnds 3-7: Ch 1, sc back into the marked ch-1 corner, [*ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next ch-1 sp; rep from * across until there is 1 st left in the row, ch 1, sk 1 st, work (sc, ch 2, pm, sc) in the marked ch-2 corner sp] four times, then when you reach your starting corner, work (sc, ch 1, pm, sl st join). <Not including the marked corner sps, at the end of Rnd 7 you should have 117 sts across the top and bottom of the blanket, and 131 sts along the sides.>

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

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