Crossed Towers Cable Crochet Baby Blanket

Crochet cables are NOT hard!

If you know how to do post stitches, you can crochet cables.

Learn how to crochet the crossed towers cable crochet baby blanket! This pattern is an easy-to-memorize four row repeat that produces an heirloom gift.

The cables featured in this easy baby blanket pattern are also known as crossed towers. I learned how to crochet these cables at the Ultimate Crochet Stitch Library On-Demand Summit over at Crafts On Air. I LOVED watching so many excellent stitch tutorials all in one place, and I was excited to see how manageable crochet cables actually are.

I am so thrilled with the way this lacy border pairs with the cable blanket. I expect to use this beautiful border on future designs, too! Super easy and so elegant.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

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Abbreviations (US)

• ch(s): chain(s)
• fptr(s): front post treble crochet(s)
• hdc(s): half double crochet(s)
• pm: place marker
• rep: repeat
• rnd(s): round(s)
• rs: right side
• sc(s): single crochet(s)
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• ws: wrong side
• yo: yarn over

Materials

• Caron One Pound Weight 4 Medium (100% acrylic, 812 yds/742 m, 16 oz/454g) Soft Pink 2 skeins
• Size H/8 5mm crochet hook
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle

Finished Size

33″ x 33″ | Before border: 29″ x 29″

Gauge

13 sts x 13 rows = 4″ x 4″

Gauge is tricky to measure on the rs of the blanket because the cables are skinnier than the hdc stitches. I found gauge easiest to measure on the back of the blanket.

Notes

You can get an ads-free, easy-to-print PDF of this pattern over at Ravelry or at Etsy!

Turning ch never counts as a st.

To adjust the width of the blanket, ch a multiple of 8+1.

I have step-by-step photo tutorials of both the cable stitches and the border in separate posts! You can view them here:

• Crossed Towers Cable Crochet Stitch Tutorial
• Lacy Crochet Border Tutorial

Or, if you’d prefer a video tutorial, you can watch a replay of the crochet cables class I taught for the Atlantic Institute below or at YouTube here.

Pattern

Ch 97.

Row 1: (rs) Hdc in the second ch from hook and in each st across. (96 sts here and throughout). Ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: (rs) Hdc in the first 2 sts. Fptr in the next 4 sts. *Hdc in the next 4 sts, fptr in the next 4 sts; rep from * until there are 2 sts left in the row. Hdc in the last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 4: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 5 (creating the crossed towers): (rs) Hdc in the first 2 sts. *Sk 2 sts, fptr in the next 2 fptrs (from 2 rows down), then fptr in the first skipped fptr and then the second skipped fptr, sk 4 hdc sts behind the fptr sts. Hdc in the next 4 sts; rep from * until there are 2 sts left in the row. Hdc in the last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

If you need a more thorough and helpful visual, check out my step-by-step photo tutorial of this stitch: Crossed Towers Cable Crochet Stitch Tutorial.

Row 6: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 7 (straightening out the towers): (rs) Hdc in the first 2 sts. Fptr in the next 4 fptrs. *Hdc in the next 4 sts, fptr in the next 4 fptrs; rep from * until there are 2 sts left in the row. Hdc in the last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 8: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.

Rows 9-96: Rep Rows 5-8 until work measures 29″, ending on Row 8 of the repeat.

Border

Border is worked rs facing.

Rnd 1: Pull up a loop of yarn in the upper right-hand corner. In the same corner, work (ch 1, sc, pm, sc). [Sc across, but somewhere in the middle work 2 scs in the same st. In the corner, work (3 scs, pm in the middle sc). As you work along the sides, aim to place 1 sc along each row-end, and again somewhere along the middle work 2 scs into the same row-end. In the corner, work (3 scs, pm in the middle sc)] twice. When you reach your starting corner, instead of 3 scs, work 1 sc, then sl st join to your marked first st of the rnd. Each side, excluding your 4 marked corners, should have 97 sts.

Rnd 2: [Ch 3, pm, sk 1 st, sl st into the next st. *Ch 3, sk 1 st, sl st into the next st; rep from * until there are two sts left including the marked corner. Ch 3, pm, sk 1 st, sl st into the marked corner] four times. Each side should have 48 scallops, and you will have used 8 stitch markers.

Rnd 3: Sl st in the next 2 sts. Your hook should be at the top of the scallop. [*Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the next marker. Once you’ve worked a sl st into the marked sp, ch 4, pm, and sl st into the next marked sp] four times. As you work around your starting corner, instead of working your final sl st into the ch-3 sp, work it into the next sl st to complete the rnd. Not including your marked corners, each side should have 47 scallops, and you will have used 4 stitch markers to mark every ch-4 corner sp.

Rnd 4: Sl st in the next 2 sts. Your hook should be at the top of the scallop. [*Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the marked ch-4 corner. Ch 4, pm, sl st into the marked corner. Ch 4, pm, sl st into the next ch-3 sp] four times. As you work around your starting corner, instead of working your final sl st into the ch-3 sp, work it into the next sl st to complete the rnd. Each side should have 48 scallops, and you will have used 8 stitch markers to mark every ch-4 sp.

Rnd 5: Sl st in the next 2 sts. Your hook should be at the top of the scallop. [*Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the marked ch-4 sp from the previous rnd. Ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp. Ch 5, pm, sl st into the next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sl st into the next ch-3 sp] four times. As you work around your starting corner, instead of working your final sl st into the ch-3 sp, work it into the next sl st to complete the rnd. Not including your marked corners, each side should have 47 scallops, and you will have used 4 stitch markers to mark every ch-5 corner sp.

Rnd 6: Sl st in the next 2 sts. Your hook should be at the top of the scallop. [Ch 4. Sl st into the next ch-3 sp. *Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the next ch-4 sp (the scallop next to the marked ch-5 corner sp). Ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp. Ch 5, pm, sl st into the ch-5 sp. Ch 5, pm, sl st into the next ch-4 sp] four times. As you approach your starting point, you will work your second ch-5 into the sl st before the ch-4 sp at the start of the rnd. Pm. Each side should have 48 scallops, and you will have used 8 stitch markers to mark every ch-5 sp.

Rnd 7: Sl st in the next 2 sts. Your hook should be at the top of the scallop. [Ch 4. Sl st into the next ch-3 sp. *Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the ch-5 sp. Ch 6, pm, sl st into the next ch-5 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the next ch-4 sp] four times. As you approach your starting point, you will work your second ch-5 into the sl st before the ch-4 sp at the start of the rnd. Not including your marked corners, each side should have 47 scallops, and you will have used 4 stitch markers to mark every ch-6 corner sp.

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

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