Golden Trellis Crochet Baby Blanket

Create your next heirloom baby blanket! The Golden Trellis Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern is a timeless design with lovely, textural stitches in a gorgeous, sparkly dk weight yarn. And you can pretty easily memorize the repeat!

I love crocheting cables. The texture is just stunning, and making the cables is so much easier than you’d think if you haven’t tried them yet! Feel free to check out my other cabling designs.

Although this pattern may look complicated, there are many signals along the way indicating what you should do next. And each wrong-side row has you half double crochet across, so that part is super easy!

As for the border, this is my third design so far featuring that lacy border! I just love it, and I hope you will, too. I even have a step-by-step photo tutorial.

PS – the below photo was staged by my 5 and 3 year-olds. They were very enthusiastic about the “swirl” in the middle!

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

You can save this pattern to your Pinterest board here.

Links below include affiliate links, where I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks so much for your support!

Fireside Comforts Blog Hop

This pattern is featured in the Fireside Comforts Blog Hop hosted by Ambassador Crochet! If you missed getting the free pattern PDF on October 9, you can get all the patterns in a PDF bundle for 65% off! Available through November 4.

Learn more about the bundle here.

Abbreviations (US)

• ch(s): chain(s)
• fptr(s): front post treble crochet(s)
• hdc(s): half double crochet(s)
• pm: place marker in stitch just created
• rep: repeat
• rnd: round
• rs: right side
• sc(s): single crochet(s)
• sk: skip
• sl st(s): slip stitch(es)
• st(s): stitch(es)
• ws: wrong side

Materials

• Expression Fiber Arts Sparkle DK Weight 3 Light (60% Superwash Merino Wool, 26% Nylon, 10% Baby Alpaca, 4% Metallic (Polyester), 275 yds/251 m, 3.5 oz/100 g) Caramel Popcorn 7 skeins
• 7/4.5mm crochet hook
• Scissors
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle

Finished Size

36″ x 39″ with border after blocking

32″ x 35″ before border after blocking

30″ x 33″ before border and before blocking

Gauge

14 sts x 14 rows = 4″ x 4″ after blocking

15 sts x 15 rows = 4″ x 4″ before blocking

Notes

You can get an ads-free, easy-to-print PDF of this pattern over at Etsy or Ravelry!

Turning ch never counts as a st.

To adjust the width of this blanket, ch a multiple of 4 + 3.

I’ve included traditional instructions for the pattern as well as shorthand in italics. Here are examples of what crochet shorthand looks like:

• Sc 1 means single crochet in the next stitch.
• Sc 2 means single crochet in the next two stitches.
• 2 sc means work two single crochets in the next stitch.

When working with hand-dyed yarn, it is best to alternate skeins every other row to avoid color pooling, even if all of your yarn came from the same dye lot. I worked with three skeins attached at a time, picking up the next skein at the end of each row. However, I worked the border with only one skein at a time.

Thank you so much to Expression Fiber Arts for providing the GORGEOUS yarn for this project!

For another timeless, elegant, and still memorizable baby blanket pattern, I think you’ll love the Heirloom Cable Sampler Crochet Baby Blanket.

Golden Trellis Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern

Ch 115.

Row 1: (ws) Hdc in the second ch from hook and in each st across, ch 1, turn. <All ws rows: 114 hdcs>

Row 2: (rs) Hdc in the first st, fptr in the next st, sk the hdc behind stitch just made (here and always), *hdc in the next 2 sts, fptr in the next 2 sts; rep from * across until there are 4 sts left in the row, hdc in the next 2 sts, fptr in the next st, hdc in the last st, ch 1, turn. <All rs rows: 56 fptrs, 58 hdcs>

Row 2 Shorthand: Hdc 1, fptr 1, sk hdc behind st made (here and always), *hdc 2, fptr 2; rep from * across until there are 4 sts left in the row, hdc 2, fptr 1, hdc 1, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: (ws) Hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: (rs) Hdc in the first 2 sts, fptr around first fptr from two rows back (called “the bar” from here on out), fptr around the next bar, *hdc in the next 2 sts, fptr around each of next 2 bars; rep from * across until there are 2 sts left in the row, hdc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.

Row 4 Shorthand: *Hdc 2, fptr 2; rep from * across until there are 2 sts left in the row, hdc 2, ch 1, turn.

Note: I’ve had a few folks reach out with questions about Row 4 specifically. Here is a video tutorial for that row. I hope it helps!

Row 5: (ws) Hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: (rs) Hdc in the first 2 sts, sk 1 bar, fptr in the next bar, fptr in the skipped bar, *hdc in the next 2 sts, sk 1 bar, fptr in the next bar, fptr in the skipped bar; rep from * across until there are 2 sts left in the row, hdc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.

Row 6 Shorthand: *Hdc 2, sk 1 bar, fptr in the next bar, fptr in the skipped bar; rep from * across until there are 2 sts left in the row, hdc 2, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: (ws) Hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: (rs) Rep Row 6.

Row 9: (ws) Hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: (rs) Rep Row 6. You should end up with three twists.

Row 11: (ws) Hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 12: (rs) Hdc in the first st, fptr in the next bar, *hdc in the next 2 sts, fptr in the skipped bar, fptr in the next bar; rep from * across until there are 4 sts left in the row, hdc in the next 2 sts, fptr in the next bar, hdc in the last st, ch 1, turn.

Row 12 Shorthand: Hdc 1, fptr 1, *hdc 2, fptr 2; rep from * until there are 4 sts left in the row, hdc 2, fptr 1, hdc 1, ch 1, turn.

Row 13: (ws) Hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 14: (rs) Hdc in the first st, fptr in the next bar, *hdc in the next 2 sts, sk 1 bar, fptr in the next bar, fptr in the skipped bar; rep from * across until there are 4 sts left in the row, hdc in the next 2 sts, fptr in the next bar, hdc in the last st, ch 1, turn.

Row 14 Shorthand: Hdc 1, fptr 1, *hdc 2, sk 1 bar, fptr in the next bar, fptr in the skipped bar; rep from * until there are 4 sts left in the row, hdc 2, fptr 1, hdc 1, ch 1, turn.

Row 15: (ws) Hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 16: (rs) Rep Row 14.

Row 17: (ws) Hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 18: (rs) Rep Row 14.

Row 19: (ws) Hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Rows 20-125: Rep Rows 4-19. You will end on Row 13 of the repeat.

With yarn still attached, continue in border instructions.

Lacy Crochet Border

Border Notes: Border is worked in continuous rounds rs-facing. Each side of the blanket needs an odd number of sts in Rnd 1. As you work along the sides, aim to place 1 sc per row-end for a border that lies flat. Download the chart for this border here.

Rnd 1: Work (sc, pm, sc) in the same st, [sc across increasing once somewhere in the middle, in the corner work (3 sc, pm in the middle sc), sc down the side, in the corner work (3 sc, pm in the middle sc)] twice ending the final rep with only 1 sc in the starting corner, sl st join. <Not including marked corners, the top and bottom of the blanket should have 115 sts, and the sides should have 125 sts.>

Rnd 2: [Ch 3, pm, sk 1 st, sl st into the next st, *ch 3, sk 1 st, sl st into the next st; rep from * until there are two sts left including the marked corner, ch 3, pm, sk 1 st, sl st into the marked corner] four times. <For all even-numbered rounds, the top and bottom of the blanket will have 58 scallops, sides will have 62 scallops, and you will have used 8 stitch markers, two flanking each corner.>

Rnd 3: Sl st in the next 2 sts so your hook reaches the top of the scallop, [*ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * to first marked ch-sp, ch 3, sl st in marked sp, ch 4, pm, sl st in next marked sp] four times working the final sl st into the first scallop of the rnd. <For this round and all subsequent odd-numbered rounds, excluding marked corners the top and bottom of the blanket will have 57 scallops, sides will have 61 scallops, and you will have used 4 stitch markers, one in each corner.>

Rnd 4: [*Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the marked ch-4 corner, ch 4, pm, sl st into the marked corner, ch 4, pm, sl st into the next ch-3 sp] four times working the final sl st into the first scallop of the rnd.

Rnd 5: [*Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the marked ch-4 sp, ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp, ch 5, pm, sl st into the next marked ch-4 sp, ch 4, sl st into the next ch-3 sp] four times working the final sl st into the first scallop of the rnd.

Rnd 6: [*Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp, ch 5, pm, sl st into the marked ch-5 corner sp, ch 5, pm, sl st into the next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sl st into the next ch-3 sp] four times working the final sl st into the first scallop of the rnd.

Rnd 7: [*Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp, ch 5, sl st into the marked ch-5 sp, ch 6, pm, sl st into the next marked ch-5 sp, ch 5, sl st into the next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sl st into the next ch-3 sp] four times working the final sl st into the first scallop of the rnd.

Rnd 8: [*Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp, ch 5, sl st into the ch-5 sp, ch 6, pm, sl st into the marked ch-6 corner sp, ch 6, pm, sl st into the ch-5 sp, ch 5, sl st into the next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sl st into the next ch-3 sp] four times working the final sl st into the first scallop of the rnd.

Rnd 9: [*Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp, ch 5, sl st into the ch-5 sp, ch 6, sl st into the ch-6 sp, ch 7, sl st into the next marked ch-6 sp, ch 6, sl st into the ch-5 sp, ch 5, sl st into the next ch-4 sp, ch 4**, sl st into the next ch-3 sp] four times ending the last rep at **, sl st into the next sl st.

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

*Red indicates marked sts.

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