Learn how to crochet three beautiful cables to create a STUNNING heirloom crochet baby blanket! This cable sampler crochet baby blanket pattern includes small, medium, and large cables, flanked by bar stitches, for a traditional effect reminiscent of Irish crochet.
This baby blanket is perfect for those with some crochet cable experience to take their skills one step further!
If you are brand new to cables, I have some great ideas for where to start. First, front post stitches are the perfect gateway to cables. I’d suggest practicing post stitches with my Waffle Stitch Crochet Baby Blanket + Moss Stitch Border.
Next, I have a much more basic and easier version of this blanket that you might love, and you can see that here: Crossed Towers Cable Crochet Baby Blanket.
Crochet cables really are easier than you might think! So, if you are ready to tackle a variety of crocheted cables, keep reading!
Maybe the most exciting part of this pattern is you can memorize it. It is technically an 8-row repeat (don’t panic!), but 4 of the rows are the same simple stitch repeated across. Once you complete the first 16 rows (I know! But it’s worth it!!), the pattern is established and you will be able to see, as you work, what comes next.
This baby blanket is finished off with a beautiful lacy border. Again, I love the nod to traditional Irish crochet patterns where we have lots of 3D elements and lace.
I hope you enjoy this pattern!
You can save this to your Pinterest board here.
Abbreviations (US)
- ch(s): chain(s)
- fptr(s): front post treble crochet(s)
- hdc(s): half double crochet(s)
- pm: place marker in the stitch you’d just created
- rep: repeat
- rnd(s): round(s)
- rs: right side
- sc(s): single crochet(s)
- sl st: slip stitch
- st(s): stitch(es)
- ws: wrong side
Materials
- Bernat Baby Sport Weight 3 Light (100% acrylic, 1256yds/1148m, 12.3oz/350g) Baby Pink 2 skeins
- Size H/8 5mm crochet hook
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
Finished Size
36″ x 38″ with border | 32″ x 34″ before border
Gauge
14 sts x 14 rows = 4″ x 4″
Notes
You can get an ads-free, easy-to-print PDF of this pattern over at Ravelry or Etsy!
I have step-by-step photo tutorials of the medium sized cable stitches, so you can get a feel for the technique, as well as for the border in separate posts! You can view them here:
Or, if you’d prefer a video tutorial, you can watch a replay of the crochet cables class I taught for the Atlantic Institute below or at YouTube here.
The cables are written for right-handed crocheters. If you are working the pattern and you are left-handed, you will flip the order you work the crossed stitches. For example, when I say “Fptr around the 2 skipped bars in order from right to left,” left-handed crocheters will work in order from left to right instead.
I’ve included traditional instructions for the pattern as well as shorthand in italics. Here are examples of what crochet shorthand looks like:
- Sc 1 means single crochet in the next stitch.
- Sc 2 means single crochet in the next two stitches.
- 2 sc means work two single crochets in the next stitch.
Thank you so much to Michelle Donato for testing this pattern! @mtd1026 on Instagram
Pattern for Gauge
Ch 19.
Row 1: Hdc in the second ch from hook and in each st across. <18 sts here and throughout swatch> Ch 1 and turn.
Row 2: Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: (rs) Hdc in the first 2 sts, fptr in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 2 sts, fptr in the next 6 sts, hdc in the next 2 sts, fptr in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3 shorthand: Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Fptr 6. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 4: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 5: (rs) Hdc in the first 2 sts. *Fptr around the posts of the next 2 fptrs from two rows below. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the posts of the next 6 fptrs from two rows below. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the posts of the next 2 fptrs from two rows back. Hdc in the last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 5 shorthand: Hdc 2. Fptr 2 around the posts of the fptrs from two rows below. Hdc 2. Fptr 6 around the posts of the fptrs from two rows below. Hdc 2. Fptr 2 around the posts of the fptrs from two rows below. Hdc 2. Ch 1 and turn.
Note: From here on out, we are always working fptrs around the posts of fptrs from two rows below. These look like protruding bars. So, for readability, I will be shortening this to “fptr around the next X number of bars.”
Row 6: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 7 (same as row 5): (rs) Hdc in the first 2 sts. *Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 6 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 7 shorthand (same as row 5): Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Fptr 6. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 8: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 9 (creating the crossed stitches): (rs) Hdc in the first 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Sk 3 sts, fptr around the next 3 bars, fptr around the 3 skipped bars: you’ll work into the skipped sts in order from right to left (see image). Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 9 shorthand: Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Sk 3 sts. Fptr 3. Working right to left, fptr in the 3 sk’d sts. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 10: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 11 (same as row 5, 7): (rs) Hdc in the first 2 sts. *Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 6 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 11 shorthand (same as row 5, 7): Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Fptr 6. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 12: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 13 (same as rows 5, 7, 11): (rs) Hdc in the first 2 sts. *Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 6 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 13 shorthand (same as row 5, 7, 11): Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Fptr 6. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 14: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 15 (same as rows 5, 7, 11, 13): (rs) Hdc in the first 2 sts. *Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 6 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 15 shorthand (same as rows 5, 7, 11, 13): Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Fptr 6. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Ch 1 and turn.
Heirloom Cable Sampler Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern
Ch 113.
Row 1: (rs) Hdc in the second ch from hook and in each st across. <112 sts here and throughout.> Ch 1 and turn.
Row 2: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: (rs) [Hdc in the first 4 sts. Fptr in the next 4 sts. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr in the next st. Hdc in the next st. Fptr in the next 4 sts. Hdc in the next st. Fptr in the next st. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr in the next 2 sts. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr in the next 6 sts. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr in the next 2 sts. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr in the next st. Hdc in the next st. Fptr in the next 4 sts. Hdc in the next st. Fptr in the next st.] twice. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr in the next 4 sts. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3 shorthand: [Hdc 4. Fptr 4. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Fptr 4. Hdc 1. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Fptr 6. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Fptr 4. Hdc 1. Fptr 1.] twice. Hdc 4. Fptr 4. Hdc 4. Ch 1 and turn.
Note: After Row 3, ALL fptrs are worked around the posts of the fptrs from two rows previous. These look like protruding bars. So, for readability, I will be shortening this to “fptr around the next X number of bars.”
Row 4: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 5 (crossing the stitches of all cables except the widest cables): (rs) [Hdc in the first 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Sk 1 st. Fptr around the next bar. Fptr around the skipped bar. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next st. Sk 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Fptr around the 2 skipped bars in order from right to left. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 6 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next st. Sk 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Fptr around the 2 skipped bars in order from right to left. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next bar.] twice. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Sk 1 st. Fptr around the next bar. Fptr around the skipped bar. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 5 shorthand: [Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Sk 1 st. Fptr 1. Fptr 1 around the sk’d bar. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Sk 2 sts. Fptr 2. Fptr 2 around the sk’d bars in order from right to left. Hdc 1. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Fptr 6. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Sk 2 sts. Fptr 2. Fptr 2 around the sk’d bars in order from right to left. Hdc 1. Fptr 1.] twice. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Sk 1 st. Fptr 1. Fptr 1 around the sk’d bar. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 6: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 7 (straightening any crossed stitches): (rs) [Hdc in the first 4 sts. Fptr around the next 4 bars. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next 4 bars. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 6 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next 4 bars. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next bar.] twice. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next 4 bars. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 7 shorthand: [Hdc 4. Fptr 4. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Fptr 4. Hdc 1. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Fptr 6. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Fptr 4. Hdc 1. Fptr 1.] twice. Hdc 4. Fptr 4. Hdc 4. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 8: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 9 (crossing the stitches of ALL cables): (rs) [Hdc in the first 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Sk 1 st. Fptr around the next bar. Fptr around the skipped bar. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next st. Sk 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Fptr around the 2 skipped bars in order from right to left. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Sk 3 sts. Fptr around the next 3 bars. Fptr around the 3 skipped bars in order from right to left. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next st. Sk 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Fptr around the 2 skipped bars in order from right to left. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next bar.] twice. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Sk 1 st. Fptr around the next bar. Fptr around the skipped bar. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 9 shorthand: [Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Sk 1 st. Fptr 1. Fptr 1 around the sk’d bar. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Sk 2 sts. Fptr 2. Fptr 2 around the sk’d bars in order from right to left. Hdc 1. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Sk 3 sts. Fptr 3. Fptr 3 around the sk’d bars in order from right to left. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Sk 2 sts. Fptr 2. Fptr 2 around the sk’d bars in order from right to left. Hdc 1. Fptr 1.] twice. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Sk 1 st. Fptr 1. Fptr 1 around the sk’d bar. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 10: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 11 (same as Row 7 – straightening any crossed stitches): (rs) [Hdc in the first 4 sts. Fptr around the next 4 bars. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next 4 bars. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 6 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next 4 bars. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next bar.] twice. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next 4 bars. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 11 shorthand: [Hdc 4. Fptr 4. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Fptr 4. Hdc 1. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Fptr 6. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Fptr 4. Hdc 1. Fptr 1.] twice. Hdc 4. Fptr 4. Hdc 4. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 12: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 13 (same as Row 5 – crossing the stitches of all cables except the widest cables): (rs) [Hdc in the first 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Sk 1 st. Fptr around the next bar. Fptr around the skipped bar. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next st. Sk 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Fptr around the 2 skipped bars in order from right to left. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 6 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next st. Sk 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Fptr around the 2 skipped bars in order from right to left. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next bar.] twice. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Sk 1 st. Fptr around the next bar. Fptr around the skipped bar. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 13 shorthand: [Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Sk 1 st. Fptr 1. Fptr 1 around the sk’d bar. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Sk 2 sts. Fptr 2. Fptr 2 around the sk’d bars in order from right to left. Hdc 1. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Fptr 6. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Sk 2 sts. Fptr 2. Fptr 2 around the sk’d bars in order from right to left. Hdc 1. Fptr 1.] twice. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Sk 1 st. Fptr 1. Fptr 1 around the sk’d bar. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 14: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 15 (same as Rows 7, 11 – straightening any crossed stitches): (rs) [Hdc in the first 4 sts. Fptr around the next 4 bars. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next 4 bars. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 6 bars. Hdc in the next 2 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next bar. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next 4 bars. Hdc in the next st. Fptr around the next bar.] twice. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Fptr around the next 4 bars. Hdc in the next 4 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 15 shorthand: [Hdc 4. Fptr 4. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Fptr 4. Hdc 1. Fptr 1. Hdc 4. Fptr 2. Hdc 2. Fptr 6. Hdc 2. Fptr 2. Hdc 4. Fptr 1. Hdc 1. Fptr 4. Hdc 1. Fptr 1.] twice. Hdc 4. Fptr 4. Hdc 4. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 16: (ws) Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn.
Rows 17-120: Rep Rows 9-16 until work measures 34.” You’ll end on Row 16 of the repeat.
Border
Border is worked rs facing.
In Rnd 1, make sure to end up with an odd number of sts along each side of the blanket. If you choose to make the blanket a different length, aim for 1 sc per row-end.
After Rnd 2, border is worked in continuous rounds; it is important to move the stitch marker up as you work so you know where each new round begins.
Rnd 1: Pull up a loop of yarn in the upper right-hand corner. In the same corner, work (ch 1, sc, pm, sc). [Sc across, but somewhere in the middle work 2 scs in the same st. In the corner, work (3 scs, pm in the middle sc). As you work along the sides, aim to place 1 sc along each row-end, and again somewhere along the middle work 2 scs into the same row-end. In the corner, work (3 scs, pm in the middle sc)] twice. When you reach your starting corner, instead of 3 scs, work 1 sc, then sl st join to your marked first st of the rnd. <Excluding marked corners, the top and bottom of the blanket should have 113 sts, and the sides should have 121 sts.>
Rnd 2: [Ch 3, pm, sk 1 st, sl st into the next st. *Ch 3, sk 1 st, sl st into the next st; rep from * until there are two sts left including the marked corner. Ch 3, pm, sk 1 st, sl st into the marked corner] four times. <Top and bottom of the blanket will have 56 scallops, sides will have 60 scallops, and you will have used 8 stitch markers.>
Rnd 3: Sl st in the next 2 sts. Your hook should be at the top of the scallop. Ch 3, pm, sl st into the next ch-3 sp. [*Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * to the next marker. Ch 4, pm, and sl st into the next marked sp] four times. You will have worked the final sl st into the marked first scallop of this rnd. <Not including your marked corners, top and bottom of the blanket will have 55 scallops, sides will have 59 scallops, and you will have used 5 stitch markers: one in each corner, and one marking the start of the rnd.>
Rnd 4: Ch 3, pm, sl st into the next ch-3 sp. [*Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the marked ch-4 corner. Ch 4, pm, sl st into the marked corner. Ch 4, pm, sl st into the next ch-3 sp] four times. You will have worked the final sl st into the marked first scallop of this rnd. <Top and bottom of the blanket will have 56 scallops, sides will have 60 scallops, and you will have used 9 stitch markers: two flanking each corner, and one marking the start of the rnd.>
Rnd 5: Ch 3, pm, sl st into the next ch-3 sp. [*Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the marked ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp. Ch 5, pm, sl st into the next marked ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sl st into the next ch-3 sp] four times. You will have worked the final sl st into the marked first scallop of this rnd. <Not including your marked corners, top and bottom of the blanket will have 55 scallops, sides will have 59 scallops, and you will have used 5 stitch markers: one in each corner, and one marking the start of the rnd.>
Rnd 6: Ch 4, pm, sl st into the next ch-3 sp. *Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the next ch-4 sp (the scallop next to the marked ch-5 corner sp). Ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp. Ch 5, pm, sl st into the marked ch-5 corner sp. Ch 5, pm, sl st into the next ch-4 sp. [Ch 4. Sl st into the next ch-3 sp. (Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp) until you reach the next ch-4 sp (the scallop next to the marked ch-5 corner sp). Ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp. Ch 5, pm, sl st into the marked ch-5 corner sp. Ch 5, pm, sl st into the next ch-4 sp] three times. You will have worked the final sl st into the marked first scallop of this rnd. <Top and bottom of the blanket will have 56 scallops, sides will have 60 scallops, and you will have used 9 stitch markers: two flanking each corner, and one marking the start of the rnd.>
Rnd 7: Ch 4, pm, sl st into the next ch-3 sp. *Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the next ch-4 sp (the scallop next to the marked ch-5 sp). Ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the marked ch-5 sp. Ch 6, pm, sl st into the next marked ch-5 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the next ch-4 sp. [Ch 4. Sl st into the next ch-3 sp. (Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp) until you reach the next ch-4 sp (the scallop next to the marked ch-5 sp). Ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the marked ch-5 sp. Ch 6, pm, sl st into the next marked ch-5 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the next ch-4 sp] three times. You will have worked the final sl st into the marked first scallop of this rnd. <Not including your marked corners, top and bottom of the blanket will have 55 scallops, sides will have 59 scallops, and you will have used 5 stitch markers: one in each corner, and one marking the start of the rnd.>
Rnd 8: Ch 4, pm, sl st into the next ch-3 sp. *Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the next ch-4 sp (two scallops from the marked ch-6 corner sp). Ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the ch-5 sp. Ch 6, pm, sl st into the marked ch-6 corner sp. Ch 6, pm, sl st into the ch-5 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the next ch-4 sp. [Ch 4. Sl st into the next ch-3 sp. (Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp) until you reach the next ch-4 sp (two scallops from the marked ch-6 corner sp). Ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the ch-5 sp. Ch 6, pm, sl st into the marked ch-6 corner sp. Ch 6, pm, sl st into the ch-5 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the next ch-4 sp] three times. You will have worked the final sl st into the marked first scallop of this rnd. <Top and bottom of the blanket will have 56 scallops, sides will have 60 scallops, and you will have used 9 stitch markers: two flanking each corner, and one marking the start of the rnd.>
Rnd 9: Ch 4, pm, sl st into the next ch-3 sp. *Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp; rep from * until you reach the next ch-4 sp (two scallops from the marked ch-6 sp). Ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the ch-5 sp. Ch 6, sl st into the ch-6 sp. Ch 7, pm, sl st into the next marked ch-6 sp. Ch 6, pm, sl st into the ch-5 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the next ch-4 sp. [Ch 4. Sl st into the next ch-3 sp. (Ch 3, sl st into the next ch-3 sp) until you reach the next ch-4 sp (two scallops from the marked ch-6 sp). Ch 4, sl st into the ch-4 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the ch-5 sp. Ch 6, sl st into the ch-6 sp. Ch 7, pm, sl st into the next marked ch-6 sp. Ch 6, pm, sl st into the ch-5 sp. Ch 5, sl st into the next ch-4 sp] three times. You will have worked the final sl st into the marked first scallop of this rnd. <Not including your marked corners, top and bottom of the blanket will have 55 scallops, sides will have 59 scallops, and you will have used 5 stitch markers: one in each corner, and one marking the start of the rnd.>
Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.
