Homespun Arrow Stitch Crochet Baby Blanket

Use Homespun yarn to make a beautiful arrow stitch crochet baby blanket with lots of dimension! The arrow stitch takes a little getting used to, but with some practice you can work this easy-to-memorize two-row repeat pattern quickly with bulky yarn!

I knew I wanted to try a very textural stitch to make the yarn itself as well as the subtle color changes really pop. Originally I attempted to do a blanket entirely in front post half double crochet, inspired by the beautiful ridges in the Done in a Day blanket pattern over at Mama in a Stitch. But when working a blanket entirely in this stitch… it turns into a rhombus!

I’ve since learned how to fix this problem, caused not by a tension issue but by the nature of working this stitch only on the right side of the blanket. I have a dishcloth pattern to show how to get this great texture with straight edges. In the meantime, I do love how the arrow stitch looks with Homespun yarn!

For the border, I opted for herringbone half double crochet. I love the cozy feel! It’s a favorite border of mine. I’ve also used it in my Perfectly Patchy Temperature Crochet Baby Blanket.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

You can pin this pattern to your Pinterest board here.

Abbreviations (US)

  • ch(s): chain(s)
  • dc(s): double crochet(s)
  • pm: place marker
  • rep: repeat
  • rnd(s): round(s)
  • rs: right side
  • sc(s): single crochet(s)
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • tr(s): treble crochet(s)
  • tr2tog: treble crochet two together
  • ws: wrong side
  • yo: yarn over

Special Stitch

hhdc(s): herringbone half double crochet(s): Yo, insert your hook into a st, and pull up a loop. Continue to pull that loop through the next loop on your hook. You should have two loops left on your hook. Yo and pull through the remaining two loops. For a nice visual, check out How to easily crochet the Herringbone half double crochet by Madame Stitch.

Materials

  • Lion Brand Homespun Weight 5 Bulky (98% Acrylic, 2% Polyester, 185yds/169m, 6oz/170g) Tudor 6 skeins, 1,110yds total
  • Size K/10.5 6.5mm crochet hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry needle

Finished Size

33″ x 32″ with border | 29″ x 28″ before border

Gauge

11 sts x 10 rows = 4″ x 4″

Notes

You can get an ads-free, easy-to-print PDF of this pattern over at Ravelry, Etsy, or Lion Brand!

I’ve included many visuals of this stitch below, but if you’d like an even more detailed step-by-step photo tutorial demonstrating this stitch, I highly recommend The Arrow Stitch tutorial over at Nordic Hook.

To adjust the width of this blanket, ch a multiple of 4.

Homespun Arrow Stitch Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern

Ch 80.

Row 1: (rs) Sc in the second ch from hook and in the next 2 sts. *Ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next 3 sts; rep from * across. <79 sts here and throughout.> Ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: (ws) Dc in each st and ch-1 sp across. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: (rs) Sc in the first st. Tr in the first ch-1 sp two rows below. Sk the st you’d worked the tr in front of. *Sc in the next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next st, tr2tog working into the last ch-1 sp and the next ch-1 sp. Sk the st you’d worked the tr2tog in front of; rep from * until there are 5 sts left in the row. Sc in the next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next st, tr in the same ch-1 sp you’d worked your last tr2tog into, sk the st you’d worked the tr in front of, sc in the last st of the row. Ch 1 and turn.

1. Sc in the first st. Tr in the first ch-1 sp two rows below. To start the tr, yo twice.
2. Insert your hook in the ch-1 sp two rows below. In this row you are inserting the hook back-to-front, and you will wrap the stitch around the starting ch.
3. Yo and pull through the first two loops on your hook. Yo and pull through the next two loops on your hook. Yo and pull through the last two loops on your hook to complete the tr.
4. Sk the st you’d worked the tr in front of. Sc in the next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next st.
5. Tr2tog. So, yo twice and insert your hook into the same ch-1 sp where you’d worked the first tr.
6. Yo, pull through two, yo, pull through two. Stop when you have two loops left on your hook.
7. Begin another tr. So, yo twice.
8. Insert your hook in the next ch-1 sp from two rows below.
9. Yo and pull through two, yo and pull through two. You should have three loops left on your hook.
10. Yo and pull through all three loops.
11. Sk the st you’d worked the tr2tog in front of. *Sc in the next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next st, tr2tog working into the last ch-1 sp and the next ch-1 sp. Sk the st you’d worked the tr2tog in front of; rep from * until there are 5 sts left in the row. Sc in the next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next st, tr in the same ch-1 sp you’d worked your last tr2tog into.
12. The completed tr. Then sk the st you’d worked the tr in front of, sc in the last st of the row. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 4: (ws) Dc in each st and ch-1 sp across. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 5: (rs) Sc in the first st. Tr in the first st below ch-sp (the top of the dc two rows below). Sk the st you’d worked the tr in front of. *Sc in the next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next st, tr2tog working into the last st below ch-sp and the next st below ch-sp. Sk the st you’d worked the tr2tog in front of; rep from * until there are 5 sts left in the row. Sc in the next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next st, tr in the same st below ch-sp you’d worked your last tr2tog into, sk the st you’d worked the tr in front of, sc in the last st of the row. Ch 1 and turn.

1. In subsequent odd-numbered rows, you’ll insert your hook in sts below ch-sps, or the tops of the dcs two rows below. I found it easiest to work back-to-front, isolating the top of the dcs like you see in the picture.
2. Here is the beginning of the first tr2tog so you can see more clearly where to insert your hook.
3. The first part of the tr2tog completed.
4. The finished tr2tog.
5. The finished rs row.

Rows 6-67: Rep Rows 4-5 until work measures 28″ or to desired length. You’ll end on Row 5 (a rs row) of the repeat.

Herringbone Half Double Crochet Border

Border is worked rs facing. If you do not cut your yarn, you’ll begin in the upper-left corner of the blanket.

Rnd 1: Ch 1. In the same corner, work (sc, pm, sc). [Sc down the first edge. As you work along the sides, aim to place about 10 sc for every 9 row-ends. In the corner, work (3 scs, pm in the middle sc). Sc in each st across. In the corner, work (3 scs, pm in the middle sc)] twice. When you reach your starting corner, instead of 3 scs, work 1 sc, then sl st join to your marked first st of the rnd. <Excluding your 4 marked corners, the top and bottom of your blanket should have 79 sts, and the sides should have 76 sts.>

Rnd 2: Ch 1. In the same st work (hhdc, pm, hhdc). [Hhdc in each st across. In the corner, work (3 hhdcs, pm in the middle hhdc)] four times. When you reach your starting corner, instead of 3 hhdcs, work 1 hhdc, then sl st join to your marked first st of the rnd. <Excluding your 4 marked corners, the top and bottom of your blanket should have 81 sts, and the sides should have 78 sts.>

Rnds 3-6: Rep Rnd 2. <At the end of Rnd 6, excluding your 4 marked corners, the top and bottom of your blanket should have 89 sts, and the sides should have 86 sts.>

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

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