Jacob’s Colorful Cables Crochet Baby Blanket

ByDana

Learn how to crochet the Jacob’s ladder stitch! Then, pair this stitch with straight cables for a beautiful, memorizable crochet baby blanket pattern with great texture!

The Jacob’s Colorful Cables Crochet Baby Blanket features 24 vibrant colors for a unique, eye-catching baby gift!

I love how the many colors and cables pair for an attention-grabbing baby blanket! This was such a fun one to design, and I hope you’ll have fun working it up!

Maybe the best thing about this pattern is it’s a two-row repeat! And one of the rows calls for single crocheting in each stitch across. Easy to memorize and such a fun finished product.

I love the camel stitch border and use it often! You can see it featured on the following patterns:

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

You can pin this pattern to your Pinterest board here.

Abbreviations (US)

  • ch(s): chain(s)
  • dc(s): double crochet(s)
  • fptr(s): front post treble crochet(s)
  • hdc(s): half double crochet(s)
  • rep: repeat
  • rnd: round
  • rs: right side
  • sc(s): single crochet(s)
  • sl st(s): slip stitch(es)
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • ws: wrong side

Materials

  • Brava Worsted Weight 4 Medium Mini Pack (100% Acrylic, 54yd/50m, 0.88oz/25g) Reds 1 pack – see notes
    • Color A: Sienna
    • Color B: Brindle
    • Color C: Almond
    • Color D: Seraphim
    • Color E: Eggplant
    • Color F: Mulberry
    • Color G: Freesia
    • Color H: Lady Slipper
    • Color I: Currant
    • Color J: Wine
    • Color K: Fairy Tale
    • Color L: Red
    • Color M: Rouge
    • Color N: Cotton Candy
    • Color O: Blush
    • Color P: Persimmon
    • Color Q: Coral
    • Color R: Paprika
    • Color S: Orange
    • Color T: Seashell
    • Color U: Caution
    • Color V: Canary
    • Color W: Custard
    • Color X: Cream
      =1,308yds/1,196m, 21.16oz/600g total
  • Brava Worsted Weight 4 Medium (100% Acrylic, 218yd/199m, 3.5oz/100g) Cream 1 skein
  • J/10 6mm crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Stitch markers
  • Tapestry needle

Finished Size

34″ x 44″ with border | 30″ x 40″ before border

Gauge

11 sts x 11 rows = 4″ x 4″

Pattern for Gauge

Ch 16.

Row 1: Dc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. <15 sts here and throughout.> Ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: Dc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn.

Rows 4-13: Rep Rows 2 and 3.

Notes

You can get an ads-free, easy-to-print PDF of this pattern over at Ravelry or at Etsy!

Buy on Ravelry
Buy on Etsy

UNFORTUNATELY, the reds mini pack of yarn is no longer available! You have a couple of options:

  1. You can get the rainbow mini pack instead, which is the only colorway available at this time (available at WeCrochet, KnitPicks, and Walmart online).
  2. You can buy one full size skein of each color listed above. That should be enough to make FOUR of the same blanket (if you’d like!) or to simply have a bunch of leftover yarn for future projects. If you choose to make four of the same blanket (for charity for example), you will need an extra skein of cream for the border for each blanket.
  3. You can make this blanket using your favorite self-striping worsted weight yarn, and it will turn out lovely!

For a detailed, step-by-step photo tutorial of the Jacob’s ladder stitch, I love the Jacob’s ladder stitch tutorial over at Nordic Hook.

I prefer to work a ch-1 for my turning ch, even though a ch-2 is more conventional when working the dc rows. If you prefer to ch 2 ahead of a dc row, feel free!

Turning ch never counts as a st.

To adjust the width of this blanket, ch any multiple of 6 + 5.

Jacob’s Colorful Cables Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern

Ch 83.

Row 1: (rs) Dc in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 10 sts. Ch 10, sl st to the top of the dc just completed. *Dc in the next 12 sts. Ch 10, sl st to the top of the dc just completed; rep from * until there are 11 sts left. Dc in the next 11 sts. <82 dcs, 6 ch-10 loops.> Ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: (ws) Sc in each st across, making sure to push any ch-10 loops behind the scs (toward the rs of the work). <82 scs.> Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: (rs) Dc in the first 4 sts. Fptr in the next 2 dcs from 2 rows back. *Dc in the next 5 sts. Ch 10, sl st to the top of the dc just completed. Dc in the next 5 sts. Fptr in the next 2 dcs from 2 rows back; rep from * until there are 4 sts left in the row. Dc in the last 4 sts. <68 dcs, 14 fptrs, plus 6 ch-10 loops.> Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3 Shorthand: Dc 4. Fptr 2. *Dc 5. Ch 10, sl st to the top of the dc just completed. Dc 5. Fptr 2; rep from * until there are 4 sts left in the row. Dc 4. Ch 1 and turn.

Note: No need to do anything with the ch-10 loops until the second-to-last row of the pattern. For now, you can leave them hanging!

Row 4: (ws) Sc in each st across, making sure to push any ch-10 loops behind the scs (toward the rs of the work). <82 scs.> Ch 1 and turn.

Row 5: (rs) Dc in the first 4 sts. Fptr around the next 2 fptrs from 2 rows back (the vertical bars). *Dc in the next 5 sts. Ch 10, sl st to the top of the dc just completed. Dc in the next 5 sts. Fptr around the next 2 bars; rep from * until there are 4 sts left in the row. Dc in the last 4 sts. <68 dcs, 14 fptrs, plus 6 ch-10 loops.> Ch 1 and turn.

Row 5 Shorthand: Dc 4. Fptr 2. *Dc 5. Ch 10, sl st to the top of the dc just completed. Dc 5. Fptr 2; rep from * until there are 4 sts left in the row. Dc 4. Ch 1 and turn.

Rows 6-108: Rep Rows 4-5 until work measures about 39″, changing colors whenever you run out of a mini skein. You will end on Row 4 of the repeat, a ws row.

Row 109 (second to last row): (rs) Dc in each st across. <82 dcs.> Ch 1 and turn.

Connect your ch-10 loops. Starting at the bottom of your first column of loops, pull the second loop from the bottom through the bottom loop. Next, pull the third loop from the bottom through the second loop. Work upward until you’ve connected every loop! They will look like this:

Row 110 (last row): (ws) Sc in the first 10 sts. *Sc in the next st and through the big loop, tacking down the big loop. Sc in the next st and through the big loop a second time. Sc in the next 10 sts; rep from * across. <82 scs.>

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

Camel Stitch Border

Border is worked rs facing.

Rnd 1: Pull up a loop of yarn in the upper right-hand corner. In the same corner, work (ch 1, sc, pm, sc). [Sc across, work (3 scs, pm in the middle sc) in the corner. As you work along the side, aim to place 1 sc along each row-end. Work (3 scs, pm in the middle sc) in the corner] twice. When you reach your starting corner, instead of 3 scs, work 1 sc, then sl st join to your marked first st of the rnd. <Not including marked corners, the top and bottom of your blanket should have 82 sts, and the sides should have 110 sts.>

Rnd 2: Ch 1, hdc in the same st. [Hdc across, work (hdc, ch 2, pm, hdc) in the corner] three times. Hdc across the fourth side, and when you reach your starting corner, work (hdc, ch 2, sl st join to your first st of the rnd). <Not including marked corners, the top and bottom of your blanket should have 84 sts, and the sides should have 112 sts.>

Rnd 3: Ch 1, hdc back into the ch-2 corner. [Hdc in the back third loop of each st across, work (hdc, ch 2, pm, hdc) in the ch-2 corner sp] three times. Hdc in the back third loop of each st on your fourth side, and when you reach your starting corner, work (hdc, ch 2, pm, sl st join to the first hdc in the rnd). <Not including marked corners, the top and bottom of your blanket should have 86 sts, and the sides should have 114 sts.>

TIP: It can be easy to accidentally work extra stitches around your ch-2 corners because it may look like there are more back loops to work into than there actually are! Rather than marking your ch-2 corner sps, you could instead mark the blo of each hdc worked in the corners. Then you will be able to undoubtedly see which stitches flank those corner spaces. I hope this tip helps!

See where the black arrow is pointing? Do not work an hdc into that stitch!

Rnds 4-6: Rep Rnd 3. You should increase by 2 sts along each edge of the blanket with each rnd. <At the end of Rnd 6, not including marked corners, the top and bottom of your blanket should have 92 sts, and the sides should have 120 sts.>

When you reach the start of the rnd, invisibly join to your first st of the rnd. If you don’t know how to invisibly join, I like this video tutorial from Bella Coco.

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

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5 Comments

    1. Hi Anne! Yes you can! So the stitch multiple is 6+5, so you can widen the blanket by 6 stitch increments to get your desired width. 6 stitches is just over 2 inches, so there’s a good amount of flexibility there! Keep in mind for symmetry though you may choose a multiple that will have bar stitches / straight cables on each edge of the blanket. So you would add increments of 12 stitches to my starting ch. Do you have a desired size? Like a throw blanket, bedspread, or just a slightly larger baby blanket? I can try to help you with the starting chain and yarn estimate for what you need! Good luck! – Warmly, Dana

      Reply

  2. I’m wondering if I am doing the front Post treble stitches correctly. When I do the single row there are gaps behind the treble is this correct?

    Reply

    1. Hi Glenda! Oh that’s such a good question. For the single crochet rows, you should be working across the tops of the stitches. So you should work into the tops of the fptrs from the row before. What I think might be happening is you’re working into the scs from two rows back, which is probably causing the fptrs to bunch up. Does that sound like what’s happening? Instead, work across the tops of all the dcs and fptrs from the row before, always pushing the ch-loops to the front of your work. I hope that helps! Please let me know if I can assist further! Warmly, Dana

      Reply

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