Olive Lattice Pound of Love Crochet Baby Blanket

Create an heirloom-quality blanket with just ONE skein of yarn!

The Olive Lattice Pound of Love Crochet Baby Blanket is a memorizable, intertwining cable design with a lovely, timeless appearance.

I am pretty obsessed with the fact that there were NO knots in this entire one-pound skein of yarn, so at the end of this project I had just TWO ends to weave in.

This pattern is finished with one of my all-time favorite borders, the camel stitch border, aka half double crochet in the back third loop. I can’t get enough of those ridges!

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

You can save this pattern to your Pinterest board here.

Abbreviations (US)

ch(s): chain(s)
fpdc(s): front post double crochet(s)
hdc(s): half double crochet(s)
rep: repeat
rnd: round
rs: right side
sc(s): single crochet(s)
sk: skip
sl st(s): slip stitch(es)
st(s): stitch(es)
ws: wrong side

Materials

Lion Brand Pound of Love Weight 4 Medium (100% Acrylic, 1,020yds/932m, 16oz/454g) Olive 1 skein
K/10.5 6.5mm crochet hook
Scissors
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle

Finished Size

30″ x 30″ | 26″ x 26″ before border

Gauge

12 sts x 18 rows = 4″ x 4″

Notes

You can get an ads-free, easy-to-print PDF of this pattern over at Etsy or Ravelry!

Buy on Etsy

Buy on Ravelry

Buy at Lion Brand

You can watch a video tutorial for this pattern on my YouTube channel here.

Turning ch never counts as a st.

To adjust the width of this blanket, ch a multiple of 4 + 3.

I’ve included traditional instructions for the pattern as well as shorthand in italics. Here are examples of what crochet shorthand looks like:

Sc 1 means single crochet in the next stitch.
Sc 2 means single crochet in the next two stitches.
2 sc means work two single crochets in the next stitch.

Check out a similar design with slightly more advanced stitches!
Golden Trellis Crochet Baby Blanket

For other solid color baby blanket patterns, check out these favorites:

Olive Lattice Pound of Love Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern

Ch 79.

Row 1: (ws) Sc in the second ch from hook and in each st across, ch 1, turn. <All ws rows: 78 scs>

Row 2: (rs) Sc in the first st, fpdc in the next st, sk the sc behind stitch just made (here and always), *sc in the next 2 sts, fpdc in the next 2 sts; rep from * across until there are 4 sts left in the row, sc in the next 2 sts, fpdc in the next st, sc in the last st, ch 1, turn. <All rs rows: 38 fpdcs, 40 scs>

Row 2 Shorthand: Sc 1, fpdc 1, sk sc behind st made (here and always), *sc 2, fpdc 2; rep from * across until there are 4 sts left in the row, sc 2, fpdc 1, sc 1, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: (ws) Sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: (rs) Sc in the first 2 sts, fpdc around first fpdc from two rows back (called “the bar” from here on out), fpdc around the next bar, *sc in the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 bars; rep from * across until there are 2 sts left in the row, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.

Row 4 Shorthand: *Sc 2, fpdc 2; rep from * across until there are 2 sts left in the row, sc 2, ch 1, turn.

Note: Here is a video tutorial for Row 4 of my Golden Trellis pattern that gives a visual of how the bars become angled in this row. The stitches are different (hdcs and fptrs), but the concept is very similar. If you are having trouble with Row 4 of this pattern, the linked video should help!

Row 5: (ws) Sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: (rs) Sc in the first 2 sts, sk 1 bar, fpdc in the next bar, fpdc in the skipped bar, *sc in the next 2 sts, sk 1 bar, fpdc in the next bar, fpdc in the skipped bar; rep from * across until there are 2 sts left in the row, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.

Row 6 Shorthand: *Sc 2, sk 1 bar, fpdc in the next bar, fpdc in the skipped bar; rep from * across until there are 2 sts left in the row, sc 2, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: (ws) Sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: (rs) Rep Row 6. You should end up with two twists.

Row 9: (ws) Sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: (rs) Sc in the first st, fpdc in the next bar, *sc in the next 2 sts, fpdc in the bar under st just worked, fpdc in the next bar; rep from * across until there are 4 sts left in the row, sc in the next 2 sts, fpdc in the next bar, sc in the last st, ch 1, turn.

Row 10 Shorthand: Sc 1, fpdc 1, *sc 2, fpdc in the bar under st just worked, fpdc in the next bar; rep from * across until there are 4 sts left in the row, sc 2, fpdc 1, sc 1, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: (ws) Sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 12: (rs) Sc in the first st, fpdc in the next bar, *sc in the next 2 sts, sk 1 bar, fpdc in the next bar, fpdc in the skipped bar; rep from * across until there are 4 sts left in the row, sc in the next 2 sts, fpdc in the next bar, sc in the last st, ch 1, turn.

Row 12 Shorthand: Sc 1, fpdc 1, *sc 2, sk 1 bar, fpdc in the next bar, fpdc in the skipped bar; rep from * across until there are 4 sts left in the row, sc 2, fpdc 1, sc 1, ch 1, turn.

Row 13: (ws) Sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 14: Rep Row 12.

Row 15: (ws) Sc across, ch 1, turn.

Rows 16-107: Rep Rows 4-15. You will end on Row 11 of the repeat.

With yarn still attached, continue in border instructions.

Camel Stitch Border

Border Notes: Border is worked in joined rnds rs-facing. In Rnd 1, as you work along the sides, aim to place 3 scs for every 4 row-ends for a border that lies flat. In Rnd 2, working in the back third loop is tight because you’re working into sc sts. You might not think a sc has a third loop, but it does! In Rnds 3-6, working into the back third loop is easy since you’re working into hdcs. Enjoy!

Rnd 1: [Sc across. In the corner, work (sc, ch 2**, sc)] four times ending the final rep at **, sl st join. <Not including ch-2 corners, all four sides should have 78 sts.>

Rnds 2-6: Ch 1, hdc back into the ch-2 corner sp, [hdc in the back third loop of each st across, in the ch-2 corner sp work (hdc, ch 2**, hdc)] four times ending the final rep at **, sl st join. <2 sts increased on each side of the blanket per rnd. At the end of Rnd 6, excluding ch-2 corners, each edge of the blanket should have 90 sts.>

Tip: It can be easy to accidentally work extra stitches around your ch-2 corners because it may look like there are more back loops to work into than there actually are! I like to place stitch markers in the back third loop of each hdc worked in the corners for a total of 8 markers. Then you will be able to undoubtedly see which stitches flank those corner spaces. I hope this tip helps!

Optional: At the end of the final rnd, invisibly join to your first st of the rnd. If you don’t know how to invisibly join, I like this video tutorial from Bella Coco.

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

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