Learn how to crochet the waffle stitch! This deceptively easy stitch is comprised entirely of double crochets – yes, double crochets! Learn how to do front post double crochet in the right places to give your blanket texture that pops.
This blanket would look beautiful without a border and I debated whether to add one, but in the end I love the way the simple moss stitch border gives the blanket a polished finish.
I used cotton yarn for this project which is known to stretch, so I figured a thick, tightly woven border would give the blanket a bit more structure.
I hope you enjoy this pattern!
Materials
- Yarn Bee Sugarwheel Cotton Weight 3 Light (100% Cotton, 335 yds/306 m, 5 oz/142 g) Citrus Grove 4 skeins
- Yarn Bee Sugarwheel Cotton Solids Weight 3 Light (100% Cotton, 335 yds/306 m, 5 oz/142 g) Muted Sage 1 skein
- Solids have unfortunately been discontinued. You could use another cake of Citrus Grove for the border, or find a nice list of substitutes at YarnSub here.
- Total yarn needed for the blanket: 1675 yds/1532 m, 25 oz / 710 g
- Size 7/4.5mm crochet hook
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
Abbreviations (US)
- ch(s): chain(s)
- dc(s): double crochet(s)
- fpdc(s): front post double crochet(s)
- pm: place stitch marker
- rep: repeat
- rnd(s): round(s)
- rs: right side
- sc: single crochet(s)
- sl st: slip stitch
- sk: skip
- sp(s): space(s)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- ws: wrong side
Finished Size
Before border: 32″ x 37″
With border: 35″ x 40″
Gauge
15 sts x 12 rows = 4″ x 4″
Notes
You can get an ads-free, easy-to-print PDF of this pattern over at Etsy or Ravelry!
Here is a video tutorial on AllFreeCrochet demonstrating the waffle stitch. Some versions of the stitch involve front post and back post double crochets, but I prefer the simplicity of this version which only includes front post double crochets and regular double crochets.
I also recently taught a class for FaveCrafts Studio LIVE featuring this pattern! In the free one-hour class you’ll learn how to crochet the waffle stitch and tips for working the moss stitch border. You can access the class at FaveCrafts here: Learn to Crochet the Waffle Stitch
For the border, Bella Coco’s video demonstrating the moss stitch border on YouTube is a great resource if you’d like a visual! She begins Rnd 1 with moss stitch instead of a single crochet foundation if you’d prefer. You can watch her video here.
To adjust the size of this blanket, chain any multiple of 3 + 1 that is also an even number.
You might also love my Mini Waffle Stitch Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern!
Pattern
Ch 118.
Row 1: (ws) First ch does not count as a st. Dc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each st across (117 sts here and throughout). Ch 1 and turn.
Row 2: (rs) Dc in first st. [Fpdc in the next st, dc in next 2 sts] until there are 2 sts left in the row. Fpdc in 2nd to last st, dc in last st. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: (ws) Dc in the first st. [Dc in the next st, fpdc in next 2 sts] until there are 2 sts left in the row. Dc in last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
At this point the pattern is formed! The first and last sts of every row are always dcs. Otherwise, you’ll fpdc into any dcs from the previous row, and dc into any fpdcs.
Rows 4-112: Rep Rows 2 and 3, ending on Row 2 (rs) of the repeat.
Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.
Border
Border is worked rs facing.
Note: Beginning in Rnd 2, the moss st border requires an odd number of sts along the top, bottom, and each side of the blanket. Either make sure you end up with an odd number by following the suggested st counts at the end of Rnd 1, or you may need to “fudge” and add 1 st in the middle of each side as needed.
Rnd 1: Using your border color, pull up a loop of yarn in the top right corner. Ch 1, sc in the same st. Sc in each st across. When you reach each corner work (sc, ch 2, pm, sc) in one st. Working along the sides is tricky! Aim to work about 2-3 scs per 2 rows. Work 1 sc in each st along the starting ch, and along the last edge work about 2-3 scs per 2 rows. When you return to your starting corner, sc, ch 1**, pm, sl st join. Not including the corners, you should have 117 sts across the top and bottom of the blanket, and about 137 sts along the sides.
**We are only doing a ch 1 in the starting corner to minimize the size of the eyelets that will form since this will be our seam.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc back into the marked ch-1 corner. Working back into the starting corner in this way keeps your seam in the corner. *[Ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next st] across until there is 1 st left in the row. Ch 1, sk 1 st. Work (sc, ch 2, pm, sc) in the marked ch-2 corner sp. Rep from * around until you reach your starting corner. Sc, ch 1, pm, sl st join to the first sc in the rnd.
Rnds 3-7: Ch 1, sc back into the marked ch-1 corner. *[Ch 1, sk 1 st, sc into the next ch-1 sp] across until there is 1 st left in the row. Ch 1, sk 1 st. Work (sc, ch 2, pm, sc) in the marked ch-2 corner sp. Rep from * around until you reach your starting corner. Sc, ch 1, pm, sl st join.
Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.
I hope you enjoy this pattern! One of my favorites I’ve made thus far!
Has the Muted Sage been discontinued?
Agh it has! It looks like all of the sugarwheel cotton solids are discontinued. :( Yarnsub is a great resource. Here’s their listing for sugarwheel cotton: https://yarnsub.com/yarns/yarn_bee/sugarwheel_cotton So sorry about that! If you find a great substitute please let me know! You could try using citrus grove / your main colorway for the border – if you do I’d love to see a photo.
When changing colors, do you start the new color at the end of the ws or rs?
Oh good question! I used a self-striping yarn, so I let the color changes just do their thing! If you’re using solid yarns and prefer to control the color changes, I would say…it depends! Changing colors on a ws row gives you a more solid color in the waffle squares, whereas changing color on a rs row will mean changing color in the middle of the squares. I actually think I prefer the look of the rs row, though, because the ws row still gives you one ridge in the previous color. Rs seems a bit cleaner. I’m attaching a photo for reference. I hope that helps! Warmly, Dana
When doing the boarder do you turn when finishing a row? Should I work on both sides or continue on the same side the whole time?
Hi Brittany! The border is worked in joined rounds with the right side facing you the whole time. That said you COULD turn each row and it would look very similar! The main difference will be in how you work the starting corner. Right now, you have to work backwards into the starting corner each round to keep the seam in the corner. If you worked in turned rounds, you wouldn’t have to work backwards at all; you would turn your work and then your hook would be set up perfectly to begin working in the corner and continuing along. I hope that helps! Warmly, Dana