Dana Nield

Learn to crochet the alpine stitch in three colors! In this step-by-step photo tutorial, you’ll learn three skills: how to crochet the alpine stitch, how to carry your yarn up the sides for color changes, and how to add a camel stitch border so you can complete a finished coaster, dishcloth, or blanket project.

Believe it or not, the alpine stitch is a pretty mindless pattern once you get going. It’s a four row repeat but it feels like a two row repeat. Each set of two rows is very similar – just different enough to be a four row repeat officially.

There’s a clear right side and wrong side for alpine stitch, but I think the back of the stitch is lovely, too!

Materials

• Size 4 worsted weight yarn in three colors. For this tutorial I used:
  • Color A: I Love This Yarn! in Linen
  • Color B: I Love This Yarn! in Spa
  • Color C: I Love This Yarn! in White
• Size I/9 5.5mm crochet hook
• Stitch Markers
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Abbreviations

• blo: back loop only
• ch(s): chain(s)
• dc(s): double crochet(s)
• hdc(s): half double crochet(s)
• fptrc(s): front post treble crochet(s)
• pm: place marker
• rep: repeat
• sc(s): single crochet(s)
• sl st: slip stitch
• sk: skip
• sp(s): space(s)
• st(s): stitch(es)
• yo: yarn over

Notes

In order to carry your yarn up the sides, you need to complete an odd number rows per color. The alpine stitch is a four row repeat, but we change color every three rows. I am thrilled with the results. I think the colors transition just beautifully.

The alpine stitch can be achieved using either front post double crochet stitches OR front post treble crochet stitches. Haak Maar Raak suggests front post treble crochet if your work starts curling. I tend to crochet tightly, so I opted for the treble crochet option!

Yarn is worked carrying the colors up the sides. Significantly fewer ends to weave in! You’ll complete your starting ch and the first 3 rows in your first color, then change colors every 3 rows for the body of the blanket.

I tacked down any floats at the end of every row I worked on to prevent super long, tight floats from forming. Once you’ve completed the first 10 rows or so and all three colors are begun, you should have in mind that at the end of EVERY row you will either be tacking down floats OR changing color.

Tricolor Alpine Stitch Tutorial

With color A (linen/beige), ch an even number of stitches. For this swatch I chained 12.

Row 1: First 2 chs count as a dc. Dc in the 3rd ch from the hook and in each st across. You should have 10 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: Sc in each st across. Place final sc in the turning ch from the previous row. (This is the only row where you are working into a turning ch!) You should have 10 scs. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: Dc in the first st.

Fptrc in the next st. So, yo twice, insert your hook behind the next dc from row 1.

Yo and pull through. You should have 4 loops on your hook. Yo pull through 2, yo pull through 2, yo pull through 2 to complete the st.

Dc in the next st.

Fptrc in the next st.

Dc in the next st.

*Fptrc in the next st, dc in the next st* rep until there is one st left in the row. Dc in the last st, switching to color B (spa/teal) during the last yo.

Ch 1 and turn.

Row 4: Sc in each st across.

Ch 1 and turn.

Row 5: Dc in the first st, dc in the second st (the top of the fptrc from row 3).

Fptrc in the next st (dc from row 3).

*Dc in the second st (the top of the fptrc from row 3), fptrc in the next st (dc from row 3)* rep until there is one st left in the row.

Dc in the last st, tacking down color A in the last yo. Tacking down your colors as you work helps prevent super long floats from becoming too tight.

Ch 1 (with only your working yarn/color B/teal, dropping your tacked down color A) and turn.

Row 6: Sc in each st across. Switch to color C (white) during the last yo in the last sc of the row. Ch 1 and turn.

Changing colors results in some loose stitches, so be sure to snug up/tighten the loose yarn after you’ve joined a new color to keep the stitches as consistent as possible.

Rep Rows 3-6 until desired size. At the end of each row from here on out, you are either tacking down your color from a previous row OR changing colors. You will change colors every 3 rows.

Row 7 (Row 3 of the repeat): Dc in the first st, *fptrc in the next st (dc from row 5), dc in the next st (the top of the fptrc from row 5)* rep until there is one st left in the row. Dc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn.

Tack down your color A at the end of this row:

When you ch 1 at the end of the row, only do so with the current working color, dropping the color you’ve tacked down.

Row 8 (Row 4 of the repeat): Sc in each st across. Tack down your color B, ch 1 and turn.

Row 9 (Row 5 of the repeat): Dc in the first st, *dc in the second st, fptrc in the next st* rep until there is one st left in the row. Dc in the last st, changing back to color A in the last yo. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 10 (Row 6 of the repeat): Sc in each st across. Tack down color B during the last yarn over in the last sc of the row. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 11 (Row 3 of the repeat): Dc in the first st, *fptrc in the next st, dc in the next st* rep until there is one st left in the row. Dc in the last st, tack down color A during the last yo. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 12 (Row 4 of the repeat): Sc in each st across, switching to color B during the last yo. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 13 (Row 5 of the repeat): Dc in the first st, *dc in the second st, fptrc in the next st* rep until there is one st left in the row. Dc in the last st, tacking down color C in the last yo. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 14 (Row 6 of the repeat): Sc in each st across, tacking down color A in the last yo. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 15 (Row 3 of the repeat): Dc in the first st, *fptrc in the next st, dc in the next st* rep until there is one st left in the row. Dc in the last st. Cut yarn and fasten off!

A bunch of floats, but very few ends to weave in!

Weave in ends.

Camel Stitch Border Tutorial

Winding Road Crochet’s Camel Stitch Blanket Border Tutorial is FANTASTIC – super clear instructions with step out photos and a video tutorial. I highly recommend if you have any confusion about working this border!

Round 1: Pull up a loop of color C (white) in the upper righthand corner of the blanket (right side facing you). Ch 1, sc in the same sp.

Sc in each st across. In each corner, sc, ch 1, pm, sc.

As you work the sides, try to place about 3-4 sc stitches along the sides of each color stripe. The sides are the trickiest part! If you are uncertain whether you are crocheting too many or too few stitches along the sides, lay down your work periodically to check. Is your border laying nice and flat, or is it splaying out? Is it flat, or is it scrunching together? Do not be afraid to rip back a bit and try again because this foundation row is important to ensure your border looks polished.

Also, be sure to enclose all those yarn floats as you work! They will peek through a tiny bit.

Work 1 sc along each st along the bottom of the blanket. When you return to your starting corner, sc, ch 1, pm, sl st join.

Round 2: Ch 1, hdc back into the marked ch 1 corner. Working back into the starting corner keeps your seam in the corner for a more polished look. Hdc in each st across. In the corners, hdc, ch 1, pm, hdc. Rep until you reach your starting corner. Hdc, ch 1, pm, sl st join to the first hdc in the row.

Rounds 3-4: Ch 1, hdc back into the ch 1 corner. Hdc in the blo of each st across. In the corners, hdc under both loops, ch 1, pm, hdc under both loops. Rep until you reach your starting corner. Hdc, ch 1, pm, sl st join to the first hdc in the row.

The above swatch is not blocked! Blocking will help it come out to a perfectly rectangular shape. 🙂 I love the TL Yarn Crafts video tutorial on blocking acrylic yarn, which you can see here. Good luck and I hope the photo tutorial above was helpful in learning this stitch!!

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